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60 Hikes Within 60 Miles: Albuquerque: Including Santa Fe, Mount Taylor, and San Lorenzo Canyon, by David Ryan Stephen Ausherman
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About the Author
David Ryan left his conventional job in the business world at the age of 49 to rearrange his life into a mixture of income-producing and personal activities. Since making that change, he has found time to walk the 2,180-mile Appalachian Trail from end to end, walk the Camino de Santiago from France to Santiago de Compostela in the west of Spain, become involved in archaeology, earn a black belt in aikido, and pursue several other outdoor and walking activities. For the past 18 years he has explored the New Mexico backcountry, looking for previously unknown archaeology sites as a volunteer for the Bureau of Land Management. He is the author of Long Distance Hiking on the Appalachian Trail for the Older Adventurer, The Gentle Art of Wandering, The Bisbee Stairs, and a blog on walking and wandering at gentleartofwandering.com. David lives in Albuquerque with his wife, Claudia, and his three dogs, Paddy, Petey, and Sparky. To contact David Ryan or receive hike updates, please visit 60hikesabq.com. Stephen Ausherman has worked as a public-health assistant in Iraq, Nigeria, Kenya, and Tanzania; a teacher in Korea and China; and a journalist in India and the United States. He was a writer-in-residence at Buffalo National River in Arkansas, Devils Tower National Monument in Wyoming, and Bernheim Forest in Kentucky, and an artist-in-residence for Cornucopia Art Center in Minnesota, Blue Sky Project in Illinois, and Cape Cod National Seashore in Massachusetts. Born in China and raised in North Carolina, Stephen took an unscheduled detour to Albuquerque in 1996. He has lived there ever since.
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BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT: Falls Trail THE EXTENSIVE TRAIL SYSTEM in Bandelier National Monument allows for a wide range of hikes, from leisurely strolls among ancient cliff dwellings to weeklong treks into backcountry wilderness. The Falls Trail is geared for casual hikers and has many rewarding views. DISTANCE & CONFIGURATION: 3-mile out-and-back plus optional 3-mile extension DIFFICULTY: Moderate SCENERY: Waterfalls, canyon woodland, tent rocks, majestic cliffs, ruins EXPOSURE: Some tree cover and canyon shade TRAIL TRAFFIC: Heavy TRAIL SURFACE: Packed dirt HIKING TIME: 2–3 hours DRIVING DISTANCE: 98 miles via San Ysidro or 104 miles via Santa Fe from the Big I ELEVATION GAIN: 6,088' at trailhead; 5882' at Upper Falls ACCESS: All trails open daily, sunrise–sunset, except December 25 and January 1. Day-use fees (subject to change): $25/vehicle or $15/person traveling on foot or bicycle. Annual Park Pass available. Federal Recreational Land Passes are accepted. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No; limited access on the Main Loop MAPS: Brochure map available at park entrance station; USGS Frijoles FACILITIES: Visitor center, gift shop, snack bar (subject to seasonal closure), restrooms, campgrounds, interpretive exhibits and programs CONTACT: National Park Service, nps.gov/band, 505-672-3861 LOCATION: White Rock COMMENTS: No dogs allowed on trails. Shuttle bus from White Rock runs during the busy season, mid-May–mid-October. LAST-CHANCE FOOD/GAS: All services in White Rock (11 miles northeast); convenience store in La Cueva (32 miles northwest); gas station in San Ysidro (58 miles southwest) DESCRIPTION Bandelier is an obligatory day trip for many Santa Fe vacations. And for good reason: when you drive in from NM 4 at the top of Pajarito Plateau down to the Bandelier visitor center at the bottom of Frijoles Canyon, it’s like you’ve dropped into Shangri-La. You almost have to pinch yourself to make sure you’re not in a dream. The pockmarked sheer canyon walls of volcanic tuff look like the bubbles and crevices inside an English muffin and are worth a drive across the country to see! The abundant ponderosa on the canyon floor fill the air with the scent of pine. The perennial stream running the length of the canyon makes it feel cooler on a warm day. The abundant Abert’s squirrels with their big tufted ears and the mule deer with their short tails only add to what makes Bandelier special. And all of this is accented by the bright blue New Mexico sky, high above the canyon walls. The combination of being a special place, abundant Ancestral Puebloan ruins, and great hiking trails makes Bandelier very popular. During the busy summer season (mid-May–mid-October) visitors arriving between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. need to take the shuttle bus from the visitor center on NM 4 in White Rock to enter the canyon. The ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings and large ruins on the floor of the canyon are clearly the main attractions at Bandelier. By the mid-1200s people were coalescing into larger groups and began building small villages. The height of development was in the 1400s, and by the mid-1500s the people had moved on to the Rio Grande. The people of Cochiti Pueblo consider the people of Frijoles Canyon to be their ancestors. As for hiking, the hike described in this book follows the Falls Trail downstream to the upper falls and then visits the main ruins in the heart of the canyon. It is a good introduction to Bandelier. There are many more hiking options, and with 70 miles of trails to choose from, picking a route in this 33,750-acre monument can be tough. To thoroughly appreciate Bandelier, you need at least three days―your pass is good for a week. Keep in mind, however, that Bandelier trails are not to be taken lightly. They wind in and out of numerous canyons cut 500 feet deep into the southernmost Pajarito Plateau. Formed by the ash flow on the eastern flank of the Valles Caldera, this sloping plateau is not as flat as you might guess. The good news is that the trails are easy to follow. Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, they seem as sturdy today as the day they were constructed. More about that project, and everything else you could possibly want to know about the monument, can be learned in the visitor center. Spend some time with the exhibits and dioramas to prepare for any questions that might pop up on the trail. For this hike, be sure to pick up the 15-page booklet A Guide to the Falls Trail. Keep in mind that weather in the park can be unpredictable. So please make sure that you are prepared for sudden changes. Snow and ice buildup add extra challenges in the winter, especially in canyons. Sun exposure and thunderstorms can get fierce in the summer. Park rangers are diligent about monitoring current conditions, so it’s worth stopping by the visitor center before hitting the trail. This hike begins at the south end of the backpacker’s parking area, across the stream from the visitor center. The trail descends 400 vertical feet in 1.5 miles on its way to the very impressive Upper Frijoles Falls. Prior to the 2011 Las Conchas fire, the trail went all the way down to the Rio Grande. The severe floods that followed the fire washed out the trail below the Upper Falls. The shortened trail is still a great hike and provides time to extend the trip for exploring the ruins on the back side of the visitor center. The hike to the falls begins as a very pleasant walk along the stream through the woods. You’ll be passing both soft volcanic tuff and very hard basalt for the entire way. You’ll even pass various forms of tent rocks. As the walk progresses, you may notice that the stream has cut deeper into the tuff and is now way below the trail. It is right around that time that you’ll catch your first glance of the Rio Grande off in the distance and down below. Although it may be difficult to tell, you are almost at the Upper Falls. The trail will end very soon at the Upper Falls overlook. The view is amazing. The falls plunge 80 feet at the point where the stream ran out of soft tuft to cut through and ran into a layer of hard basalt. The falls alone are wonderful, but there are also many different colors and layers from different volcanic events to add to the view. The pinkish rocks are volcanic tuff. The deep red layers were produced when one lava flow baked layers from previous flows. The dark, dense rock is basalt. And, if it is cold enough, you’ll see various ice formations beneath the falls. Because this is the end of the trail, you’ll have to turn around. If you decide to call it a day, you’ll have done a very nice 3-mile hike in Shangri-La. If you’re not quite ready to leave, there’s more on the other side of the visitor center. The Main Loop starts from the back side of the visitor center and passes Big Kiva and Tyuonyi (a 400-room ruin). From here the trail becomes very interesting as it uses a combination of stairways and paths to follow the cliff line so you can examine the dwellings and pass through fantastic tuff formations. You can climb ladders to reach many of the rooms and cavities dug out of the tuff. From the cliff dwellings, you can return to the visitor center or extend your walk a little more than a mile by going to Alcove House. You’ll have to climb 140 feet on a combination of four ladders and many steps to get to Alcove House. If you’re worried about heights, you won’t like the climb. Otherwise, it’s pretty cool. From here you can return to the visitor center or do some more exploring. Doing the Main Loop and Alcove House adds about 3 miles to your hike for a total of 6 miles. GPS TRAILHEAD COORDINATES N35° 46.714' W106° 16.200' DIRECTIONS Bandelier is fewer than 40 linear miles from Albuquerque, but there are no reasonable shortcuts to its main entrance. From I-25 North, take Exit 276 to NM 599. Go north 13.5 miles to its end at US 84. Go north 14 miles to Pojoaque and turn left onto NM 502 (Los Alamos Highway). Go west 11.2 miles and bear left on NM 4 toward White Rock. (Note that the Tsankawi section, on the left 1.4 miles past the junction, features a 1.5-mile self-guided hike through an Ancestral Pueblo village.) Drive 12 miles on NM 4 to the main entrance. Alternate route: From I-25 North, take Exit 242 at Bernalillo. Turn left on US 550 and go 23.5 miles to San Ysidro. Turn right on NM 4 and follow it 57 miles to the main entrance. Follow the road down to the visitor center. The Falls Trailhead is at the south end of the backpacker parking area.
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Product details
Series: 60 Hikes Within 60 Miles
Paperback: 320 pages
Publisher: Menasha Ridge Press; 3 edition (February 19, 2019)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1634041542
ISBN-13: 978-1634041546
Product Dimensions:
5.8 x 0.8 x 9 inches
Shipping Weight: 1.1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.5 out of 5 stars
45 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#161,314 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
It has become a priority for me since moving back to Albuquerque four years ago to renew my acquaintance with the surrounding beautiful scenery. Having two daughters who are enthusiastic hikers adds even more incentive, but unfortunately age requires caution and has made me less adventurous than I was when I lived here as a young woman. When one of my daughters (who lives and works in Rio Rancho, NM, a tech town just north of Albuquerque) suggested we undertake a program of short hikes on weekends, it seemed worthwhile to investigate the possibilities. Stephen Ausherman's book is full of great ideas, and extremely useful information about both the options and the difficulties. I'm very glad this helpful guidebook arrived expeditiously, because we are scheduling a hike tomorrow based on one of the entries.
A decent beginner guide to hiking New Mexico - key word: beginner. He misses some really good hikes, but he also had some hikes even I as an expert did not know about! This could be due to a lack of knowledge of the author or an agenda that aligns with the BLM/NPS (some of you may know what I'm talking about). From the trails he selected, it appears the author took the safe approach to writing this book, making sure not to step on any toes or put his readers in a situation they did not know how to handle. For those of you really into hiking, I highly suggest getting a mini SD card for your GPS (HUNT by onXmaps). That way you never have to worry about trespassing onto tribal lands. It has trail markers on it as well!
I have done all 60 hikes in the book.Ausherman does not publish the typical hike. He has hikes that few have heard of, plus the sprinkling in of traditional hikes such as Tent Rocks.I find that sometimes I pick one of his hikes, and from the description it doesn't sound that outstanding, but when I hike it, it turns out to be a gem. His hikes are SO diverse and unusual.Within the 60 hikes, I found the hikes in the city of Albuquerque not too impressive, but the out of town hikes are typically great hikes. To me, the most impressive thing about the hikes is the great diversity. Not just 60 hikes alpine hikes, but he covers the vast differences in the topology of the area.One thing you should do prior to taking any of these hikes is to check Ausherman's website. There are changes and added data on the website to augment or clarify what is in the book. The website address is on page IX of the book.
It took me a bit to realize what I didn't like about this guide. I stumbled across a "60 Hikes" title for my own region (Wisconsin) and noticed that the Wisconsin version (different author, even) gave me the same feeling. All the hikes sounded the same -- boring. I know all the Wisconsin hikes, and I know that they each have a different feel, and appeal to different people. The guide didn't make that known at all.That's what's missing in this NM guide: a feel for the hikes. The descriptions are dry details that, while useful, don't make me want to go hiking and don't even help me to choose which hike to take. The guide doesn't seem to have been written by someone who really enjoys hiking at all.
I recently purchased my 60 Hikes book and have been on several of the hikes. I find that I am enjoying getting out on some new routes and feel comfortable going with just my dog, because Stephen's descriptions help me pick those trails that would be safe and doable without other people in tow. Sometimes I just want to get out and enjoy nature quietly, without having to carry on a conversation (which thankfully my dog does not require).One thing I would recommend for a future edition is to document whether there is cell phone coverage on the trail, or nearby. This is useful for safety and in an emergency.I had an opportunity to see Stephen's terrific presentation at a bookstore in Albuquerque. If you get the chance, go see it!Thank you for a terrific hiking resource, Stephen.
Stephen Ausherman's new guidebook, "60 Hikes Within 60 Miles: Albuquerque, including Santa Fe, Mt. Taylor, and San Lorenzo Canyon," is, without a doubt, my pick for 2008's Best Book About New Mexico.I realize that, as I write this, the year has more than eight months left to go, and I'm aware that I myself am planning to publish a New Mexico title before the end of the year, but Ausherman's new book is honestly so good, so quirky, so informative, and so unique, that I feel I can go ahead and declare it as the year's best, without hesitation.The book, as its title suggests, contains sixty hikes, all within about sixty minutes of Albuquerque--within sixty miles of the Big I, where Interstate 40 crosses Interstate 25.What the title doesn't immediately reveal, however, is just how amazing these sixty hikes are, just how compellingly readable their descriptions are, or just how transformational this book has the potential to be to anyone willing to go out and experience them.The book's preface lays out the book's contents, and I challenge any resident of central New Mexico--anyone with even a spark of lust for life or a smidgen of curiosity--to read that preface and not feel overwhelmed with a feeling that maybe this place you've been living has more to it than you thought; in my case, it filled me with an almost caffeinated urge to rush out and see what it described for myself.The book's sections include:*The Duke City--featuring urban hikes within Albuquerque's city limits.*The Salt Mission Trail--venturing down into the Manzano Mountains.*The Turquoise Trail--heading up into the Sandias and beyond.*El Camino Real--exploring natural wonders along I-25 toward Santa Fe.*The City Different--snooping around Santa Fe and its environs.*The Cuba Road--heading down toward Cuba and Cabezon Peak.*The Jemez Mountain Trail--finding amazing formations around Los Alamos.*The Chihuahua Trail--moving through wild desert toward Socorro.And:*The Mother Road--following Route 66 from west of town to Mt. Taylor.Since being introduced to this title, I have already hiked a number of its hikes, and have already found my view of what surrounds Albuquerque completely altered. This place is amazing, and even though I thought I had an inkling of what its deserts and mountains hid, I now realize I did not. At all.If you live in Albuquerque, just get this. Just order it right now, or go get it from Page One. You will not regret it. It's rare that a guidebook comes along that makes you want to just sit down and read it from cover to cover, but whose hikes are so unique and intriguing that you have little choice but to put the book down and throw on a daypack.Highly, highly recommended.
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